Sancerre
Before I tell you all about my week (well, almost week) in Sancerre, let me tell you about Tuesday/Wednesday. Tuesday night a bunch of teachers went to L’etoile to say bon voyage to Lesley. It wasn’t my time to say farewell, however, because she swung by my place the next morning. In her hands was a huge cardboard box full of “leftovers”. The box included tissues, papertowels, laundry detergent, lotion, yougurt, orange juice, cereal, carrots, and more! Since I’m still here for another two weeks she figured I could use them – and I will!
When Lesley left my place to head home and finish packing I also left and headed to Charlotte’s. Lesley and I took a final picture together and said our goodbyes (She cried, I didn’t – it was weird. Normally, I’m really emotional…I think though, honestly, I was just excited to vacay in Sancerre.) once getting off the bus. At Charlotte’s, we met up with Albert (English) and Julia (American). We loaded up Charlotte’s roommate’s car (that which we were using to get to Sancerre) and hit the road. The road trip wasn’t too bad, but, we did miss our exit (causing us to drive a 1/2 hour in the wrong direction) and we did also get lost. So instead of it being 3.5 hours, it was a 4.5 hour journey. Oh well – road trips are fun! Here’s Albert trying to get us “unlost”.
Charlotte’s parent’s place, when we arrived, was so cute. There’s two bedrooms (a double and two twins), and a living room/kitchen combo. The first evening we ordered pizza (really good ones) because we were beat by the time we got there. We also opened up Charlotte’s parent’s cave (that which holds all their wine) and enjoyed our debut glass of Sancerre. It was a white and it was delicious. We watched a movie together and then went to bed.
Charlotte and I had matching beds (and a playpen! haha)
The next morning we slept in. Charlotte and I went to the patisserie one street over and bought baguettes and croissants/pain au chocolats for breakfast. After we ate we proceeded to go on a 4.5 hour walk all through the neighboring vineyards, many viaducts, and a couple close towns. Most of these “towns” are actually villages. Charlotte informed us that the rule in rural France is, if there’s a boucherie (butcher) in the village, it’s a town. Sancerre has a boucherie (despite literally being on the top of a hill) and the butcher’s name is “Fifi”. I’m not making this up. We visited him after the baker that morning to buy some chicken legs for dinner. (He was like right out of a movie – very friendly, overweight, moustache-wearing, apron-wearing, Frenchman.)
Voila - the butcher shop!
After our early afternoon of walking, and finding La Loire (river running through central France), we stopped for a picnic. Then we proceeded to walk all the way back up the hill, past Sancerre’s chateau (it was lovely), in and out of more vines, and finally home sweet home. Once back in Sancerre, we bought some Chevre (really really amazing local goat cheese). We also stopped by Charlotte’s neighbor, Madame Davide’s house. This elderly lady was very nice and talked to us for over an hour. She was impressed with all of our French, especially Charlotte’s, whom she hasn’t seen in a couple years. She told us to make sure we stopped by her daughter and son-in-law’s vineyard while we were in town. (Vincent Pinard) We assured her we would the following day.
For dinner that night, we all cooked (well, mostly Julia and Charlotte did – Albert read, and I edited my book.) Ratatouille. We also had roasted potatoes and the chicken legs we had bought that morning. For dessert we had the cheese we bought earlier that day and fruit. The chevre, all three kinds (doux, demi-sec, and sec = soft, semi-dry, and dry) were excellent! I’ve definitely stretched my cheese tastebuds since living in France.
Albert and Julia at lunch with La Loire behind them.
That's Sancerre up on the hill.
Such amazing views!
I want to return and buy this little country house one day.
Helping (a little bit) with dinner.
After dinner we played the game “Articulate”. Because we felt it would be easier to describe things to those of our own nationality (version of English) the teams were me and Julia versus Albert and Charlotte. Albert (who is still attending Oxford) and Charlotte (who went to Cambridge for undergrad) kicked our butts. I blame it on their British version of “Ivy” league education. Julia and I lost round after round. We finally decided to switch up the teams but seeing as Albert and Julia are boyfriend/girlfriend, and not wanting to cause a quarrel between the two of them (this game is very quarrelsome) Albert and I joined forces and played against Julia and Charlotte. Out of at least 5 rounds with my new partner, we only won one. But the one victory we did have, we were proud of!
We were the happy losers...I love Albert's face! haha
The next morning we relaxed like the day before, enjoying French-pressed Gevalia coffee with breakfast. We left the house, I don’t remember at what time, to head to Bourges. I drove (Charlotte wanted a break) the 30 minutes to the neighboring city where we explored the cathedral, shops, and ate a delicious lunch. On our way home in the late afternoon, we got a little lost, conveniently calling it a picturesque detour. We eventually got on the road to Sancerre, and stopped off at Vincent Pinard’s place for a degustation (tasting) and shopping.
Cute Bourges.
More of Bourges.
Me and Charlotte at lunch in Bourges.
Upon entering, we met Madame Davide’s daughter, who shooed us to her son (who was our age) who was also giving a tasting. He gave us, and another group of young 20-somethings, a very extensive tasting. I honestly think we tried 15 wines. Seriously. They were delicious and we all ended up buying bottles at the end. The grandson, Clément, was very helpful. He spoke English, and though we told him not to speak English, he determinedly tried to sneak in a word whenever he could. By the end of the two hours we were using the “tu” form while speaking because he considered us friends. How sweet. I definitely recommend this vineyard, family, wine, etc. If they do online shopping/shipping – buy some of their wine online! (Unfortunately I cannot find a website for them. If you want their telephone/fax number, though, let me know. I have it.)
Ok, moving on. That night, after the wine tasting, we made homemade lasagne for dinner. Charlotte’s roommates, Angelique and Joannie (both French and boyfriend/girlfriend) arrived. We all ate dinner together, followed by cheese (that which we bought more of) and then watched a French film: Amelie. We didn’t dare play “Articulate”, despite the nationalities still being even.
We made it with racalette on top - shh...don't tell our secret!
The next morning I packed my bags because I had to take the train home later that afternoon. We ate breakfast and then loaded my bag into the car before heading off to another domaine (vineyard) in Pougny. This place, Domaine Langlois, specialized in Cassis, as well as wine. The woman who gave the degustation was also very informative. (I think people just take pity on the foreigners and go especially slow and explain things that most people probably already know.) She gave us a lot to taste as well: a couple whites, a couple reds, and a Mir and a Cassis. The Cassis, which you can’t really find in the States, I bought a bottle of to bring home. Like with the Pinard wine, if you’re interested in buying some, please do. I definitely recommend this wine (white and red) and of course, their Cassis. Click on link I’ve linked for their website.
Looking at this picture honestly makes my mouth water for the creme de Cassis.
After our tasting we drove to the train station in Cosne-sur-Loire (closest town with a train station to Sancerre). I headed home because I had to be back in Lyon to sing in chuch Sunday morning. Not sure what the others had planned for the rest of the weekend, but I know they’re having fun. At 1pm, I boarded a train to Nevers, enjoyed a croque-monsieur at the train station’s cafe before boading my second train to Moulins, and finally taking a third train home to Lyon.
Au revoir mes amis!
Merci Charlotte (et Monsieur et Madame Langley) pour une merveilleuse demi-semaine chez vous a Sancerre. Je me suis bien amusee! (Thanks Charlotte (and Mr & Mrs. Langley) for a wonderful half-week in Sancerre. I had a great time!)
